Circular knit elastic garments



H. KNOHL June 8, 1965 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 5, 1961 June 8, 1965 H. KNOHL 3,187,522

Filed Dec. 5, 1961 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

United rates Patent 3,137,522 CIRCULAR KW ELASTEC GARMENTS Herhert Knohl, fiancee, SQ, assignor to The Kendall (Iompany, lloston, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts Filed Dec. 5, I961, Ser. No. 157,24117 9 tillairns. (Cl. 66-11%) This invention pertains to shaped foot-covering garments such as anklets, socks, half hose and full length hose incorporating an inlaid elastic yarn in at least the instep portion of the foot and knitted by any of the socalled seamless or circular methods. The invention is particularly concerned with such garments in which the yarns forming the knitted stitches in the heel and instep area at least are thermoplastic. The elastic yarns may be either thermoplastic or non-thermoplastic, however, and either bare or covered. The invention applies to both fine and coarse yarn garments whether of plain or modified plain, rib or modified rib or fancy knit stitches such as interlock stitches. For purposes of this invention the term inlaid elastic-yarn stocking shall include all such foot coverings, howsoever circularly knitted, which have an elastic yarn inlaid into knitted stitches of thermoplastic yarn in at least the instep portion of the foot. For purposes of this invention, elastic yarn shall mean a yarn (whether bare or covered, thermoplastic or non-thermoplastic or whether it is elastic by virtue of being of elastomeric material or by virtue of being deformed or otherwise treated) which is capable, after being stretched momentarily to 125% of its untensioned length, of substantially returning to that untensioned length within a period of two minutes.

In the past it has been a universal practice to circularknit inlaid elastic-yarn stockings by interrupting the elastic-yarn inlay and usually substitutingother yarn for the yarn in the knitted stitches when the heel is made. But whether other yarn is substituted or not, additional courses providing additional material in the heel area have been universally added by reciprocating the needle cylinder. This method of forming heels by reciprocation, which requires that the cylinder stop and reverse at the end of each partial course, is obviously slow, a disadvantage which has been accepted as unavoidable in obtaining proper fit in the seamless streetwear non-elastic stocking field. In the inlaid elastic-yarn containing stocking field, however, slowness is not the main disadvantage of reciprocation. In that field reciprocation is a very critical procedure because before an elastic inlay is removed, it is tucked into one or more stitches of the knitted fabric; likewise, before the elastic inlay is reintroduced after the heel pocket is completed, it is tucked into one or more fabric stitches. These two operations when performed properly produce excellent elastic stockings but the operation is delicate and a relatively high ratio of second quality garments are produced, compared to the ratio normal for non-elastic stockings.

It is an object of this invention to simplify the knitting of circular-knit inlaid elastic-yarn stockings so as to eliminate the necessity for reciprocation in forming the heel and hence the necessity for removal of elastic yarn while knitting the heel area and the reintroduction of such yarn upon completion of the heel.

It is another object of this invention to reduce the number of second quality stockings made by routine knitting of stockings of the inlaid elastic-yarn type and to permit the use of multiple feed machines which inlay elastic yarns in a plurality of courses knitted simultaneously.

It is a further object of the invention to provide inlaid elastic-yarn stockings by circularly knitting in the heel area, yet ultimately producing excellent fit in that area.

In the drawings FIGURE 1 illustrates a typical full length ladies stocking with a heel formed in accordance with the invention.

FIGURE 2 illustrates a typical half length or below the knee stocking with a heel of the invention.

FIGURE 3 is a typical toeless anklet with a heel of the invention.

FIGURE 4 is a diagrammatic representation of a heel of a typical garment of the invention showing how the spacing between the continuous spiraloid winding of inlaid elastic yarns is modified by the heat-setting operation.

FIGURE 5 illustrates a swatch of fabric typical of that of the garment of the invention with the inlay yarns passing over different wales in adjacent courses viewed from the inside.

FIGURE 6 illustrates a swatch of fabric typical of the garments of the invention with inlay larns passing over the same wales in adjacent courses viewed from the inside.

FIGURE 7 illustrates a swatch of plain knit fabric typical of the garments of the invention with inlay yarns occurring only in alternate courses viewed from the inside.

FIGURE 8 illustrates a swatch of plain knit fabric typical of the garments of the invention with inlay yarns occurring every fourth course viewed from the inside.

FIGURE 9 illustrates a rib-knit fabric typical of the garments of the invention with inlay yarns occurring in every course viewed from the inside.

The objects of the invention may be obtained by continuing the elastic yarn through the heel area in conjunction with thermoplastic yarn for the knitted stitches and setting the thermoplastic yarns to form the heel pocket by heat-set methods. Heat-set methods previously have been proposed for forming heels in non-elastic stockings but have not been adopted to any great extent partly because after heat setting the heel yarns have little stretch or give remaining. Non-elastic stockings made with heat formed heels have, therefore, been somewhat inferior in fit and conformability when compared with similar stockings made by reciprocation in the heel area. The same result does not occur, however, when elastic yarn is inlaid in the heel area and thereafter the heel is formed by heat setting in accordance with this invention.

In such garments, if the elastic yarn is a vulcanized or crosslinked rubber or synthetic rubber that is no longer thermoplastic, it is not appreciably affected by the heat setting and retains its elastic properties substantially unimpaired. But even in those cases where the elastic yarn is thermoplastic and subject to drawing when stretched at heat-set temperatures, a large part of the elasticity remains if sufiicient elastic yarn was metered in originally. The retained elasticity provides the conformability and resiliency lacking in heat formed heels in ordinary streetwear stockings whether the elastic yarn is covered or bare. As a result, the stockings of this invention provide excellent fit in the heel area after the heel is formed by heat setting. As a matter of fact, bare thermoplastic elastic yarns are preferred in the garments of this invention, the well-known Spandex (polyurethane type) yarn being particularly suitable. But the elastomeric forms of other polymers and/ or copolymers including but not restricted to those of the polyamide (nylon), halogenated polyalkylene, polyether and polyvinyl types are suitable as the elastic yarns in the garments of this invention. The invention is not confined, however, to garments in which the elastic yarn is of the elastomeric or inherently elastic type. Other elastic yarns which do not lose all of their elastic properties when subjected to the heat setting operation forming the heel are suitable. These yarns, made of non-elastomeric material, may have elastic properties because of their method of manufacture, arrangement or physical, chemical or other treatment. Those which are made elastic by being heat-set in kinked, curled, twisted or other non-linear form should be heat-set during manufacture at higher temperatures than those to which they will be exposed in the heat-set forming of the heels of the garments of this invention so that their elastic form will be retained.

Referring once more to the drawings: a

In FIGURE 1 a typical full length ladies inlaid elasticyarn stocking 1% has a welt 12, which includes an automatic turned Welt and the usual shadow welt preferably of the usual nylon welt yarns. The body portion 11 includes the lower thigh, the knee, the calf, the ankle and the foot extending to the ring toe 15. The toe 14 is preferably of stretch yarn free of inlaid yarn. The inlaid yarns of the garment of FIGURE I extend at least in the instep and heat-set heel 13 and preferably throughout the body 11. The knitted stitches of the body portion 11 need not be of the same material throughout but in the instep and heel areas, at least, they should be thermoplastic at the time when the heel is heat-set to shape. 7

In FIGURE 2 a typical below the knee stocking 2%) has an automatic welt 22 of the same material as the body 21. The body extends to the ring toe 25 and the toe 24 is preferably of stretch yarns free of inlaid yarn. The heatset heel 23 is formed preferably of the same material as the rest of the body but essentially includes thermoplastic yarns forming the knitted stitches and inlaid elastic yarns extending through the heel and instep areas.

In FIGURE 3, the anklet 36 has a narrow automatic turned welt 32 and a body 31, including the ankle and the foot, extending to the finished edge 34. The heel 33, preferably of the same material and construction as the rest of the anklet and containing elastic yarn inlaid in courses of thermoplastic yarn, is heat-set to shape. In both this garment and that illustrated in FIGURE 2, the elastic yarns optionally may be omitted from the welt entirely or from the outside layer of the turned welt. The invention, however, resides in the construction in the heel and instep where the elastic yarns are inlaid into circular knitted thermoplastic yarn stitches and wherein the final shaping in the heel and instep area is accomplished by heat-setting while that area is stretched over a shaping form.

In FIGURE 4, the diagrammatic representation of the heel 49 of a garment of the invention illustrates the principle wherein the stitches in the heel are stretched so that the elastic yarns 41 which are inlaid in the stitches are separated farther apart in the heel than in the instep. The elastic yarns 41, if they are thermoplastic, may also be somewhat drawn so that the counter appearance of the garment after heat-setting is very attractive. Where the elastic yarns are not thermoplastic, the counter appearance may not be so appealing but the garment does fit very well since the thermoplastic knitted stitches are heat-set on the form to the heel contour and the elastic yarns stretch to the heel contour when the garment is put on the foot.

In FIGURE 5, the swatch 50 illustrates the inside of a typical heel fabric of the invention. The elastic yarns 52 may be either bare or covered and either thermoplastic or non-thermoplastic. They may be either monofilament or multifilament in structure. But so long as the yarns 52 are elastic yarns as defined they need not be elastomeric. It is preferred that the yarns 52 be bare multifilament Spandex yarns. The description of the yarn 52 also applies to the elastic yarns in each of the other typical constructions illustrated in the swatches in FIGURES 6 to 9 inclusive.

The knitted-stitch yarns 51 and the similar knitted-stitch yarns in FIGURES 6 to 9 inclusive may be thermoplastic yarns of any nature so long as they may be heat set at temperatures which will not destroy the integrity or elasticity of the elastic yarn. Various thermoplastic yarns normally used for knitted goods are preferred but the various nylons are especially suitable. These yarns also may be monofilament or multifilament in structure with the latter being preferred.

The structures of typical swatches illustrated in FIG- URES 5 to 9 inclusive extend at least in the heel and instep area and preferably throughout the body of the garment.

In FIGURE 6, the swatch 68 illustrates the inside of a preferred fabric construction in the heel area with the successive rounds of elastic yarn 62 passing on the same side of the alternate and intermediate wales formed from the knitted stitch yarn 61.

In FIGURES 7 and 8, the structure is the same as that in FIGURE 6 except that the respective elastic yarns 72 and 32 are inlaid in every second course of yarn 71 in fabric 76? of FIGURE 7 and in every fourth course of yarn 81 of fabric 89 in FIGURE 8.

In FIGURE 9, the swatch 9%) illustrates a rib construction with the elastic yarn 3 inlaid into every course and with the knitted-stitch yarn being formed into inside ribs 92 and outside ribs 91 in a 1 X 1 construction.

It is not essential that the elastic yarn be inlaid in every course of the fabric for purposes of this invention. The invention is particularly useful in very fine garments to obtain fit and in some instances the elastic yarn may be incorporated in as little as 1 course in 10 or less. Obviously, the effect of the elastic yarn is much greater where it is closer together in adjacent rounds and for some purposes such a in therapeutic garments, which also may be very fine, it may be desirable to have elastic yarn in every course or in every second or third course,

Examples I, II and III Only a two-feed knitting machine is necessary for producing the garments of this invention. The garments may be knitted as in the examples of my prior U.S. Patent 2,962,885, now reissued as Re. 25,046, using the same machine and the same yarns but with the method modified in the heel area as follows: At the point where the elastic yarns are withheld while the heel is being made by reciprocation in the examples of my said patent, the knitting and inlaying are continued as in the ankle area for the same number of rounds as there were reciprocated courses in the examples, in knitting the garments of this invention. It is preferred to leave the stitch size unchanged but to increase the elastic yarn gradually from the beginning to the mid-point of the heel where about /2 inch more would be metered into a round than in the ankle. From the mid-point of the heel on, the elastic yarn preferably is decreased to the end of the heel at which point it should be metered in in the same amount as in the ankle and knitting is continued to the ring toe. Special toe yarns may replace the knitting yarn at this point and the elastic yarn is removed. Any of the conventional toe treatments may be utilized such as the sew and cut toe, the looped toe or the reciprocated pocket toe, but a toe made without reciprocation permits a simplified machine operation and results in higher manufacturing speeds.

Example IV Scott & Williams, Inc. of Laconia, NIL, is now ofiering a circular stocking machine called the All Multi Feed machine hereinafter refcrred to as the AMP machine. This 460 needle machine may be obtained with attachments for inlaying elastic yarn at one of the two feeds. It makes an excellent machine for knitting the stockings of this invention as well as the stockings of my Reissue Patent No. 25,046. In producing the stockings of this invention on the AME machine one may follow the manufacturers directions down to the point where the heel is to be made. At that point the instructions are to be disregarded for making the heel and instead the circular knitting and inlaying are continued using the same yarns for the same number of courses as are normally incorporated by reciprocation. It is preferred in this area to leave the stitch size unaltered as in the ankle area but the stitch size may be gradually slightly increased to the half-way mark of the heel area and then decreased to ankle size stitches at the completion of the heel area. But whether the stitches are knitted of one size in the heel area or whether they are modified in this area, it is preferred to gradually increase the elastic yarn metered in from that being metered in at the start of the heel area by approximately /2 inch per round to the mid-point of the heel area and then to gradually remove this /2 inch from the mid-point of the heel to the completion of the heel. Thereafter, the manufacturers directions may be followed to complete the stocking. In the absence of directions from the manufacturer, one may accomplish the results in any of the examples of my Reissue No. 25,046 modified as above in the heel area by making the set-up on the AMP machine which will produce equivalent results.

Example V The method of knitting a rib-knit inlaid elastic-yarn stocking is illustrated in US. Patent 2,949,023. Again the example may be followed except that I prefer using ordinary nylon yarn in the two body feeds and bare Spandex yarn in the inlay. The stocking is knitted down to the heel in the manner of the example but at that point the knitting is continued in circular fashion without changing yarns but increasing the amount of inlay yarn in a round gradually to the mid-point of the heel at which point the increase would be about /2 inch and then decreasing to normal at the completion of the heel. From this point the knitting and inlaying would continue to the ring toe at which point the Spandex and body yarns would be withdrawn and the toe knitted perhaps with Helanca type yarn.

It is obvious that a 1 x l rib knit has advantages in concealing the Spandex but other rib patterns such as 2 x 2, 3 x 3, 6 x 3,, x 2 and the like may be utilized particularly where coarse materials are utilized.

Example VI A somewhat coarser machine for making plain-knit elastic-yarn stockings of this invention is the Elha model RME Special, a three-feed machine, one feed of which is constructed to. inlay elastic yarn. This machine is manufactured by Harry Lucas, Gadelander Strasse 24- 26, Neurnunster, Germany. The method of knitting a mens. below-the-knee stocking with an unturned welt on this machine is, given in detail below:

Starting with the separating courses, a 50 denier nylon yarn with turns of S twist is introduced and 8 courses are knitted. During this period the left-hand elastic inlay feed cams, the right-hand knitting cams and the elastic furnishing device are out of action. After the separating courses are knitted, the left-hand elastic inlay feed mechanisms consisting of the jack draw down cam in the lower race, the sinker retracting cam, the inlay needle draw down cam and the elastic inlay finger are activated when the short butt needles have passed the lefthand inlay position and the cams are activated by the arrival of the long butt needles. At the same time the clutch for the elastic thread furnisher is activated to furnish about 8 inches of elastic thread to alternating selected needles on each revolution of the lcylinder. The elastic thread might be a 280 denier Lycra or another Spandex yarn.

Shortly before the long butt needles have reached the right-hand feed the operating cams for this feeding station are activated. The right-hand sinker cam is retracted, the right-hand stitch cam is advanced against the short butt needles and the two right-hand yarn fingers are introduced. The knitting yarns chosen might be one end of 70/2 ply Superloft Nylon in the first yarn finger and one end of 200 denier nylon in the 2nd yarn finger. The 200 denier nylon yarn is added at the right-hand feed to produce a firm roll-resistant top welt. The stitch size is controlled by the right-hand welt control cam.

The firmness and roll-resistance is further improved by the retraction of the center feed clear cam and the simultaneous introduction of the jack clear cam in the lower race.

This activation occurs again at the juncture of the short and long butt needles and produces a straight riblike fabric with tuck stitches on alternating needles.

As the long butt needles approach the center feeding station the 50 denier nylon separating yarn is exchanged for a 70/2 denier Superloft yarn and with this final action the welt make-up is completed, The elastic furnishing device continues to provide about 8 inches of elastic yarn per cylinder revolution until about 50 rounds of elastic yarn have been knitted and the welt has been completed.

Just prior to the completion of the welt the graduating device of the elastic furnisher is activated. The elastic yarn feeding speed is increased slightly to provide about 9 inches of elastic yarn per revolution of the knitting machine cylinder to accommodate the normal calf dimen- SlOllS.

At the completion of the welt the pattern wheel is introduced on the butts of the short butt needles. At the point where the short butt needles meet the long butt needles the pattern wheel slides toward the cylinder and depresses every other needle. At the same time the jack draw down cam is taken out of action and all needle selection for the elastic inlay thread is accomplished by the pattern wheel depressing every other needle. In View of the fact that the cylinder contains an odd number of needles, the inlay needles chosen change on every revolution of the cylinder from odd to even numbers and from even to odd numbers.

At the completion of the welt the jack clear cam is deactivated in the lower race and this leaves all needles in tuck position. The 70/2 Superloft yarn at the center feeding station is taken out of action converting the machine to single feed operation. At the same time the stitch graduating device is activated increasing the stitch size of the calf area slightly. As soon as the calf section has been completed, the size of the knitted stitch is gradually reduced until the desired stitch density is produced in the ankle area, The peed of the elastic furnishing device is gradually reduced until about 6 inches of Spandex are supplied per cylinder revolution in the ankle area. The transition from the welt fabric to the ankle fabric covers approximately 380 rounds of the cylinder.

At this point the speed of the elastic furnisher is increased slightly to furnish about 6 /2 inches of Spandex per cylinder revolution and courses are knitted to form the material for the heel pocket panel.

After the completion of the heel pocket panel, the speed of the elastic furnishing device is reduced slightly to provide about 6 inches of elastic yarn per cylinder revolution. The machine continues to knit the foot fabric in the same manner as that used during the knitting of the calf and ankle fabric.

When about courses beyond the heel pocket panel are completed, the elastic furnishing device is activated and the amount of elastic yarn per cylinder revolution is gradually increased to reach about 7 inches by the time additional rounds of foot fabric have been knitted and the ring toe position in the stocking has been reached.

At this point the center clear cam is introduced again. At the point where the long butt needles are cleared the '70/ 2 Superloft toe yarn is introduced on the center feed. The pattern wheel and the left-hand needle draw down cam are taken out of action, the left-hand sinker control cam is advanced and the elastic-yarn furnisher is deactivated. As the cylinder advances, the stitch cam and the yarn finger control cam for the right-hand feed are deactivated. The right-hand sinker cam is pushed in and this takes the right-hand feed out of action, but leaving the knitting machine prepared to knit the ring toe fabric. When about 30 courses are knitted, the main cam drum is moved again to prepare the machine for the manufacture of the toe fabric in the usual manner by reciprocation. The long butt needles are taken out of action and the clutch is engaged to put the cylinder into a reciprocating motion. The up-pickers deactivate one short butt needle on each side of the short butt needle panel on each reciprocation of the cylinder. After about 36 courses the needle dropper is introduced putting two short butt needles into action again on each reciprocation of the cylinder. The up-pickers continue to deactivate one short butt needle on each reciprocation. After about 36 courses have been knitted, the long butt needles are pulled into action by the wing cam, the clutch returns the cylinder into a rotating movement and the loose course and the final rounds of the margin yarn are knitted in the conventional manner. After about 24 courses, the 70/2 Superloft toe yarn is exchanged for the 50 denier nylon separating yarn and the stocking knitting cycle is completed. The toe may be closed by looping or sewing.

It should he pointed out that on this stocking the toe pocket was knitted on the short butt needles. This manufacturing procedure places the toe closure of the stocking under the foot which is a very desirable feature and eliminates the need for special attachments normally used on hosiery machines to place the toe closure under the foot.

The garments of this invention lend themselves readily to manufacture on multifeed machines wherein several courses are knitted simultaneously and wherein at one or more feeds elastic yarn is inlaid into one more of the courses being knitted. Prior to this invention, the fact that the heel required reciprocation and the inlaying devices were not adapted to inlay in the courses made by reciprocation made it necessary to remove the elastic inlay. Where this occurred in more than one course as with multifeed machines, the possibilities of producing second quality garments were greatly increased to the point where multifeed machines were not practical except where elastic yarn was laid into only one of several courses being simultaneously knitted. The garments of my invention, however, permit such machines to be used for knitting inlaid elastic yarn stockings of all types because the heel in such garments is knitted in a circular manner while continuing to inlay the elastic yarn.

After the garments of this invention are knitted, they are sorted as to size and preferably placed on forms and passed through a dyeing and setting machine which dyes the stocking and sets it automatically on the form. The temperature of setting will depend upon the setting temperature of the thermoplastic yarn used and upon the time of exposure in the particular machine. The setting temperatures of the various nylons and other thermoplastic yarns used in knitting are well known to those in the stocking production field and the exposure time of a particular setting or dyeing and setting machine which will secure proper setting with these various yarns is also usually known. But if a new yarn is used for which the exposure time and temperature are not known, it is advisable to use seconds material and start with an intermediate temperature and a normal exposure time. If setting is not achieved, the temperature is raised by increments until normal exposure accomplishes setting. Generally setting should be accomplished at as low a temperature as is consistent with the normal exposure time of the machine.

I claim: 1. A knitted elastic-yarn containing stocking comprising knitted stitches of thermoplastic yarn forming courses of said stocking in the shaped heel and instep of said stocking elastic yarn extending in a continuous spiraloid winding inlaid in at least one of said courses wherein the knitted stitches of thermoplastic yarn in the heel are larger than those in the instep in the same course, the adjacent inlaid rounds of elastic yarn are further separated in the heel than in the instep and wherein the amount of elastic yarn in a round is increased over that in a round in the adjacent ankle portion. 2. The garment of claim 1 wherein portions thereof have elastic yarn inlaid in rib-knit fabric.

3. The knitted stocking of claim 1 wherein the elastic yarn is elastomeric.

4. The knitted stocking of claim 3 wherein the clastomeric yarn-is a bare Spandex yarn.

5. The stocking of claim 3 wherein the elastic yarn is inlaid in at least every 10th course in said body.

6. The knitted stocking of claim 1 wherein the thermoplastic yarn is a nylon yarn.

7. The knitted stocking of claim 1 wherein the heel is at least partially heat-set to finished form.

8. The knitted stocking of claim 1 wherein the thermoplastic yarn is multifilamentary.

9. The knitted stocking of claim 1 wherein the clastomerlc yarn is a covered yarn.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS Re. 25,046 10/61 Knohl 66178 532,196 1/95 Glouton 66187 2,013,396 9/35 Adamson 66172 2,015,608 9/35 Southwick 66189 2,111,472 3/38 Horn 66189 2,188,241 1/40 Davis 66178 2,629,996 3/53 Hamilton 66172 2,653,463 9/53 Crimmins 66190 2,695,507 11/54 Tew 66182 2,949,023 8/60 Holmes 66178 FOREIGN PATENTS 5,535 1906 Great Britain. 151,297 9/20 Great Britain.

DONALD W. PARKER, Primary Examiner. RUSSELL C. MADER, Examiner. 

1. A KNITTED ELASTIC-YARN CONTAINING STOCKING COMPRISING KNITTED STITCHES OF THERMOPLASTIC YARN FORMING COURSES OF SAID STOCKING IN THE SHAPED HEEL AND INSTEP OF SAID STOCKING ELASTIC YARN EXTENDING IN A CONTINUOUS SPIRALOID WINDING INLAID IN AT LEAST ONE OF SAID COURSES WHEREIN THE KNITTED STITCHES OF THERMOPLASTIC YARN IN THE HEEL ARE LARGER THAN THOSE IN THE INSTEP IN THE SAME COURSE, THE ADJACENT INLAID ROUNDS OF ELASTIC YARN ARE FURTHER SEPARATED IN THE HEEL THAN IN THE INSTEP AND WHEREIN THE AMOUNT OF ELASTIC YARN IN A ROUND IS INCREASE OVER THAT IN A ROUND IN THE ADJACENT ANKLE PORTION. 